Declawing

1. Should I declaw my pet?

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  • Before you have your pet declawed it is important to understand why a cat scratches, why a cat has claws to begin with and what will happen if you  have your pets claws removed.
  • Stretching and scratching is a very natural part of every cats life. The scratching not only marks their territory it also sharpens and removes any shedding of the surface of their claws. Cats use their claws not only for hunting but they are also their main defense against dogs, birds of prey and any other predators.

1. You also must consider the consequences that the procedure may have on your cat’s overall health, including the cat’s psychological well being and the behavioral problems that are often a direct result of removing the cat’s nails. Veterinary research suggests that 33% of declawed cats experience at least one behavioral problem after being declawed. (Since we have been rescuing cats we have taken in several cats that had already been declawed. Every one of these cats were abnormally shy, and did not want to be near other cats or animals. They had to be kept alone, and adopted out to people who could only have one pet).

1. The procedure used to declaw a cat, also called an onychectomy, is considered a major surgery that involves putting the cat under anesthesia. Once the cat is anesthetized, the veterinarian not only removes the cat’s nails but also the bone that the claw is embedded in. This procedure has been compared to having the last knuckle of each of your ten fingers amputated. During this process, nerves and tendons in the paws are also severed. After the declaw surgery, the cat’s front paws will be tightly bandaged for several weeks while the wounds heal.
2. The declaw surgery is painful for the animal, and many countries outside of the United States find declawing cruel and inhumane. As result, declawing a cat is illegal and punishable by law in these countries. In the United States declawing is permitted, however some veterinarians refuse to declaw a cat.
3. Aside from the initial pain of removing the claws, the cat’s quality of life is affected permanently. After a cat is declawed he is unable to scratch, climb trees, and flex and stretch his body naturally. Use of his claws to balance and break falls becomes difficult after declawing.
4. The most important consideration to make before you declaw a cat is to realize that a cat’s claws are, other than its teeth, the only form of defense against predators. If you declaw your cat, she should remain indoors for the duration of her life. A declawed cat is less able to escape from dogs, raccoons and coyotes. Even when you intend to keep your cat indoors, there is the potential that it may accidentally get outside.

It is understandable that pet owners do not wish to have their possessions destroyed by their cat, but there are some alternatives to consider before making the decision to declaw your cat:

1. What is the best type of scratching post?

• You should always supply your cat with a quality scratching post. There are many different kinds of scratching posts available.  I believe it is best not to buy a scratching post that is made from materials that are close in resemblance to the furniture or carpet.
• The scratching post needs to be very stable, and tall enough for your cat, if you have a wobbly scratching post that is too short for your cat to fully stretch and scratch, your cat will not use it.
• Some cats prefer horizontal scratchers, some prefer vertical, if your cat does not use the vertical scratching post and you see your pet scratching the carpet or horizontal parts of your furniture chances are the cat only likes to scratch horizontally and you will need to purchase or make horizontal scratchers for your pet.

• The best scratching posts we have found or built are the kind made with rough cut lumber or posts wrapped with sisal rope. (the very rough looking and feeling rope not the smooth cotton or nylon type)

• It is best to have more than one scratcher and if you have heard the saying location is everything, that is true with scratching posts and litter boxes also. Do not put the scratching post in a high traffic or noisy area of the house or in a place where your cat seldom ventures.

• Teach your cat not to scratch furniture, woodwork etc. by keeping a small water gun handy. When your cat begins to scratch on forbidden objects, give him a squirt of water and say "no" loudly. Reward your cat with praise and/or a treat when he scratches in the designated areas. (at our own home we also use packing tape to tape the corners of our sofa and reclining chair. Cats do not like the smooth slick feeling of the packing tape)

• Never punish or hit a cat…….cats have a memory like an Elephant. If you do this your relationship with your pet will be damaged, and it will be difficult to undo. Cats do not easily forgive as a dog will.

• If you have tried everything and you just cant get your cat to stop scratching the furniture there are other alternatives to declawing such as plastic nail caps that prevent any damage to furniture and is more humane than declawing. We sell Soft Paw brand caps. They are easy to apply and one package will be enough for aprox. 5-6 months, and cost $18.

Litter box issues:

Box Size and Number

 
A kitten-sized cat litter box is right for kittens. Adult cats should have adult-sized boxes. Once your cat is big enough, it's time to graduate to an adult size.

If you have more than one kitty in the house, it's probably best to get an extra large box (more than one as we'll discuss below). In my experience though, even with one cat, the extra large size seems to allow for the right amount of litter.

If you have a very large cat, say over 18 lbs, or a "swisher" that tends to throw litter around, you can get a larger plastic tub and use that as a litter box. Rubbermaid makes quality containers that won't bend or twist too much under the weight of litter or cat paws, and they tend to have high sides. Larger containers with higher sides also help with overspray from those cats who like to urinate up against the side of the box.

The downside is there is no cut out for entry/exit, so if your cat has a mobility problem this may not work. In order to make it is easier on your cat, whether or not there is a mobility problem, you can set up a ramp, some steps, or get one of the litter box furniture options that has a ramp built-in.

 
The all-important one plus one rule:

 
The question that everyone should ask themselves is "how many litter boxes should I have?"

 
The answer is that you should have one box for every cat in the house, plus one extra. This is known as the one plus one rule and should be followed even if you have only one cat.

There are several reasons for this. First, cats usually like their boxes to be clean. While some cats won't complain too much, many cats won't even use a box that has just been used, even if they were the one to use it last. Some cats like to urinate in one box, and defecate in the other. So, having an extra box helps with this.

In single cat households, two cat litter boxes means each one is usually cleaner more of the time. It also means that in a large house, your cat doesn't have far to go to reach a box. This can be important as your cat ages and becomes less active, or develops mobility problems due to arthritis or some other condition.

In multi-cat households, one box for each cat plus one additional box means again, that each box stays cleaner, and there is always an alternative box to use that may not have been recently visited. More on multi-cat litter box issues below.

Box Placement

 
Location, location, and... location! Just as in real estate, it's all about location. This piece of kitty real estate needs to be placed in the right spot. Placing the box in the wrong spot can lead to litter box problems.

 
There are a number of "no no's" when it comes to cat litter box placement:

• too close to the food or water bowls
• too close to high traffic areas
• too close to noisy areas
• too out of the way or difficult to get to
• placed on the wrong surface

 
The above seems obvious, but some people fail to realize that cats don't eliminate where they eat. They also don't like lots of activity or noise where they eliminate. In addition, if you put a cat litter box in a location that your cat doesn't frequent, they may be reluctant to use it.

General speaking, bathrooms, laundry rooms, and kitchens are probably not good areas to place the box. Bathrooms are not only busy, but sometimes the door is close, restricting access to the box. Laundry rooms have detergent and bleach smells that cats dislike, in addition to noisy machinery. Yet, time and time again, these are the locations that people often use for the box.

I'm not saying that these places can't be used. It's just that many people use places that end up being too busy or noisy to be viable. Then, when their cat stops using the box, they wonder why. Sometimes it's difficult to know why these problems occur, but other times it's crystal clear.

 
So, where should the boxes be placed?

 
Each litter box should be placed in an area of the house that your cat frequents, but one that is not too busy. The area should be quiet, away from the food and water bowls, and preferably should allow for multiple escape routes.

Also, there are some cats who will prefer that the box is placed on a hard surface, such as a tile floor rather than carpeting. Some cats will prefer to actually push the litter aside, and defecate on the hard bottom of the cat box, then cover it up. This is common with longer haired cats (Frankie, who has medium-long hair, sometimes does this). If your cat has issues with inappropriate elimination, try changing the surface the box is placed on.

 
Cleaning the Box

 
Your cat has a sensitive nose. You need to keep the box clean if you want to prevent litter box aversion. It's also healthier for you and your cat, so it's in your best interest to have the cleanest cat litter box you can have.

If you're using clumping litter, you should scoop each box at least once per day. Add new litter when needed to replace the litter you remove with each scoop. Every so often, dump all the litter, clean and dry the box, and start over with fresh litter.

This can be done every 3 to 6 weeks or so, depending box usage. When you clean the box, you can use a bleach solution for sanitizing, but make sure there are no residual bleach or detergent smells when you're done.

Top Reasons Your Cat Won't Use the Box

• Box placement, size, and type. Easy entry and exit, proximity to food, covered or uncovered, large or small, it all matters to the feline of the house. The box should be in a quiet location, have easy entry and exit, be of the right size, and away from food and water bowls.
• Move to a new home. All felines are extremely territorial. Try to make any move to a new location as easy on your cat as possible.
• Dirty litter box. The litter box has to be cleaned to your cat's specifications, and they have a sensitive nose. Cats also do not like strong smells such as citrus or bleach so make sure you rinse the box really well when you clean it.
• Too few litter boxesfor the number of cats in the house. One box for each cat plus one more box is the recommendation from experts. Also make sure there is a box on every level of your home.
• A dislike of the texture of the litter
• New brand of litter introduced. When introducing a new brand of litter, do it slowly. If a problem develops, switch back to the old litter.
• Threats from an outside cat. This can be as subtle as a stray cat hanging around in the yard, and can disturb even an indoor cat.
• Disagreement with housemate. If your cat is constantly ambushed by another cat or dog in the house when using the cat box, a problem could develop. Also, general tensions and aggressions between housemates can sometimes play out as litter box issues.
• Household renovations. The noise and disruption of work being done on the house can induce a high level of stress in your cat.
• New cat, dog, or person added to the household.
• Change in owner's schedule. Your cat may be sensitive to changes in your routine.

Medical problems or conditions such as a urinary tract infection, impacted anal glands, feline constipation, or parasites such as worms.

• Physical discomfort when entering or exiting the litter box. If your cat has arthritis or hip issues, injury or some sort of strain, or other condition causing pain or weakness. Senior cats are especially susceptible to mobility problems.

Cats can develop a preference for texture and location at any time. Punishment often makes the problem worse, and patience is essential to solving the problem. So, if your cat suddenly decides to use your living room floor for a cat box, don't punish. Stress of some sort due to a change in environment, routine, and so on is a major cause of cat box problems.

Remember that if a medical problem is the root cause, you cannot solve the problem until it is addressed. Also keep in mind that once the medical problem is solved, there will be behavioral issues and litter box retraining to deal with. Your job is to reduce the stress and/or reverse the preferences that have developed. 
 

 
Solving cat litter box problems can be a challenge. Anything from an illness to stress can throw your cat off her routine. Inappropriate elimination is the number one reason that adult cats are brought shelters. I find this deeply disturbing.

I cannot stress enough that these problems can often be solved, and may involve a physical problem that you cannot detect. Your veterinarian needs to be involved in the discussion, and physical problems ruled out before you approach the behavioral issues.

You should be aware that even the most well adjusted cat can be thrown off by stress. Stress can come from many sources, including a change in household routine, the addition of a family member or pet, or the death of another pet. Even changing the amount of attention your cat receives can put stress on your cat.

Tips and Tricks for Resolving Cat Litter Box Problems

• Always have your cat checked by a vet as there could be an unseen health issue involved. No amount of behavioral retraining will work if this is the case, and it could be serious.
• There are a host of medical problems that could be at fault, such as limited mobility in a sick or older cat, or  urinary tract infection, or constipation or bowel problem for example. These problems will need to be addressed first before progress will be made. Some physical problems, such as mobility, may involve getting a different type of litter box as well.
• Use the Whale Done approach. Don't scold your cat for doing what nature is forcing her to do, even if she's doing it where you don't want her to. Instead, praise her when she does what you want.
• Cats do not like loud noises, crowded spaces, and high traffic areas for "doing their business." Place the litter box in a quiet, always accessible, less frequently used area of the house.
• Follow the one plus one rule. Some cats just can't stand a box that was recently used. This is true even if they were the last (and only) cat to use it. One box for each cat in the house, plus one additional box.
• Clean the box often, and clean it well.
• Use unscented clumping litter. Many cats don't like the perfume in scented litters, still others don't like anything that doesn't feel like sand between the toes. Pellets, crystals, and wood chips don't feel like dirt, and your cat may not like it.
• Clean the area where your cat is pooping and peeing with Atmosklear or an enzymatic cleanser designed to remove urine and pet odor. Once a cat chooses an area to go in, they'll keep coming back and it's hard to break that cycle.
• Break the cycle by putting barriers up so your cat can't get to the "favorite wrong spot."
• After thoroughly cleaning the bad area, put tin foil or down on the floor to discourage your cat from walking there. Cats typically hate to walk on those materials. You can try marking off most of the floor with double sided tape or tinfoil and leave a path. Then put a litter box right there in the open path where your cat usually wants to make a mess. Or... feed your cat in that area. Cats won't normally go where they eat if they can help it.
• Try a cage. Put your cat in a cage with a litter box. Feed her, and when she does her business in the box, let her out for a little while as a reward. Play with her and show her affection. Then put her back in.

 
 
If a physical problem was the cause of the behavior, then retraining may still need to take place once the medical issue is resolved. In any case, the retraining process may take weeks, and you must be consistent in order to help your cat modify her behavior. Again, cat litter box problems are often fixable, but you must be dedicated and patient with your kitty.